It was a freezing November winter afternoon and I was quite literally wandering through the streets of Amsterdam after the amazing canal cruise in the morning. Just browsing through everything a beautiful city has to offer gives you a perspective like nothing else in my opinion. I walked from Amsterdam Central to Dam Square, taking breaks to sit idly on benches, to admire the striking Dutch architecture, artistically uneven buildings, watching birds fly on a cloudy (partially rainy) cold day, flocks of tourists, couples holding hands, teens flaunting their take on fashion trends, random guys coming on a tad bit strong the moment they realize you are a solo flight, so on and so forth. Oh, and how can I forget dear old Primark? I had plans to go to Madame Tussauds upon reaching Dam Square as in all my travels over the years, I have never been to one. But upon reaching there, my heart wasn’t in it so I decided to walk the opposite direction instead. I came across a beautiful huge bookstore and naturally had to spend some time there. Then I decided to look for something to eat since I had nothing since I woke up that day. Looked through some places and just didn’t want to eat. Then I googled nearby secluded spots as the city was getting a bit too much for me. I came across The Begijnhof of Amsterdam and had no clue what it was so did a quick research. It turned out that The Begijnhof is one of the oldest hofjes (Hofje is a Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. They have existed since the Middle Ages and provided housing for elderly people, mostly women). They were privately funded, and served as a form of social security in Amsterdam, Netherlands and was originally a Béguinage (A beguian, from the French term béguinage, is an architectural complex which was created to house beguines – religious women who lived in community without taking vows or retiring from the world).
Enough of a history lesson, let’s get back to finding a secluded spot in Amsterdam. So, following the map, I started walking to Begijnhof. Just before you reach the hof, you have to go through the courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum, which is very pretty on its own too. Once you have navigated your way through that, amidst the hustle of a busy city filled with tourists, you find this oasis of silence and beauty. I was blown away with how peaceful the housing grounds looked, even the handful of tourists there managed to keep their volumes down. Like all others, I was also taking in the beauty of the place when I noticed a small chapel standing quietly in a corner and just when I turned to go towards it, the hour struck and the beautiful bells sounded in distance from another church. I was a little apprehensive to go in as it appeared to be a tiny building that for some reason seemed like a strict aunt’s home to me. Anyhow, I had to go inside to satisfy my curiosity and that’s exactly what I did. And I am so glad that I did because the time spent in Begijnhofkapel or Begijnhof Chapel became one of my most treasured travel memories. I am a fan of European architecture be it Romanesque, Gothic, Contemporary etc., but this small simple Catholic chapel breathes age and tell the story of its existence when the Catholics weren’t allowed to openly practise their religion. The chapel’s entrance is just across from the Reformed English Church building. But from the outside, it appears to be nothing more than one of the house buildings of Begijnhof as that was the only possibility in the 1600s in Amsterdam. However, once inside, it is clear you are within a house of worship. There is an altar painting, a fine altar, marbled columns and interesting stained-glass windows. It is totally worth to step inside to contemplate about the people who clung to their faith in difficult times and prayed here for centuries.
While I was taking all of this in, I got hooked on two women trying to tie something on each bench in the church. By this time, it was just them and a couple of other tourists along with me in the church. I kept on observing the women for a few minutes and I realized they are overwhelmed and seemed pressed for time. I had time so I went near and asked one of them (we will call her Ana for this blog) if I can be of any help. No exaggeration but she was kind of stunned and became quiet. At first, I thought, it’s probably language barrier but before I could say anything else she went off to the other woman (we will call her Michelle for the blog) and said something to her. By this time, I was starting to feel a little anxious as to what I may have set in motion. A couple of minutes later, Michelle came to me, shook my hand and warmly greeted me; I was able to breathe a sigh of relief. Now she asked me if I was a Catholic so I told her that I am a Muslim from Pakistan and her eyes almost bulged out of the sockets. Then she said, ‘And you want to help us!’ And I was literally speechless on her surprise, I mean before that moment I didn’t truly understand what damage media does when generalizing and labeling people of different faiths, skin colour, race, ethnicity, nationality for the sick television ratings. Collecting my wits, I said to her that I am sorry if I have offended her or her friend in any way and that I meant no disrespect whatsoever as I only genuinely wanted to help on seeing them short-handed. Just when I was about to turn to go, a beautiful smile appeared on Michelle’s face and she held my hand saying that they needed help and God sent them help. And just like that, we became friends. Ana and Michelle took me upstairs to an area where they were working. Michelle explained to me that she and Ana were also volunteers and they were preparing for a small event the church was holding for kids after Sunday Mass that weekend. The room was full of art supplies, colours, paintbrushes, cardboards, styrofoam sheets, ribbons etc. So I rolled my sleeves and got into painting stars and hearts with them. Just when I was beginning to get comfortable, the priest came in and immediately I thought that he has come to ask me to leave. I was such an idiot to even think that because he came only to thank a ‘Muslim sister’ aka me for helping them and to offer some coffee and cookies. By the way, it was one of the best black coffees (and that too made by a priest) and cookies that I have ever had. Time literally flew for me from thereon and when next I checked 2.5 hours had passed. In these 2.5 hrs, I became friends with Ana and Michelle, was offered to have dinner with them (which I had to sadly decline as my hotel was quite far from the church and it got dark really early in Amsterdam) and was invited to come back whenever I wish.
When I think back, I realize had I not been travelling, I probably would have never had an opportunity to be a part of something like that ever. It’s simply because we operate in a state of distrust and disbelief more often than not. We are always on alert and with our guards strong, doubting fellow humans becomes a necessity to survive. And none of it is right or wrong, it is probably just what is needed in today’s fast-paced global world to survive. Travel, therefore, broadens your horizon, it encourages you to think big, to do things which you would otherwise never do. It brings you to people and situations which have an everlasting impact on you as a person. And then, ever so rarely it allows you to correct someone’s misconception formed by popular media about your faith and nationality. What started off as a casual stroll for me to see the city’s not so touristy places, became an everlasting memory and life event for me, an experience which I will never forget, which I will tell about to my grandkids one day; can’t think of a better travel story than this…
Cheers!
Tooba Tanveer
Very nicely written
Thank you 😊